Pre Production

As of Jan1/2024 these kits are considered pre-production versions and will change to accommodate improvements before production. Production versions are expected to be released on nxp.com later in 2024. You may encounter components that need to be updated or replaced. Contact your original source for the kit if you suspect you are missing an upgraded part.

Alternatively you may also fill out this form: https://forms.office.com/e/kxRHainXDR

MR-B3RB-M ("Medium/Main" Pre Production)

The following pages describe the mechanical assembly of the MR-B3RB-M pre-production version. The -M version of MR-B3RB includes the -MUK mechanical upgrade kit consisting of:

• side skirts (note: this is moving to the base version to avoid needing to swap the plastic side clips)

• front and rear plastics (for LED covers and angles front and rear covers)

• lidar arch plate metal and metal top cover.

To install the -MUK (Mechanical Upgrade kit) you will need to first:

• remove the plastic clips that hold the top metal plate in place and

• replace them with the side skirt plastic.

• Then install the front and rear plastics as shown in the following assembly videos.

• (This will change in production version. Side skirts will already be present in base version)

MR-B3RB-S ("Small/Standard" Pre Production)

You may have a -S version of the kit which doesn't include these extra components, in that case just mount the NavQPlus and MR-CANHUBK344 in a similar way as shown in the assembly videos.

There is a plastic bracket included with the NavQPlus kit that can be used to mount the camera in the correct location at the front.

In some instances it may be that the motor to gear meshing needs to be adjusted.

Check that when you gently rotate the wheels, the gears sound like they are engaging well.

<TODO - describe how to diagnose this issue in a more precise way>

Adjust the gear mesh

The gear meshing is adjusted by loosening the two screws in the front of the motor mounting bracket. You can push the motor closer with mild pressure to ensure the teeth are well engaged. <TODO - add photos of how to adjust motor>

Assemble LED light and covers

Proceed to install the LED lights. Follow the image sequence for assembling the front part of the car pieces:

See this link for clarification on the correct screws to use: https://app.gitbook.com/o/-L9GLsni4p7csCR7QCJ8/s/U93yDWZcgjXGgsC1Duqv/~/changes/153/whats-in-the-box/witb-mr-b3rb-bmf#fastener-screw-m3-x-0.5-x-5.0mm-hex-drive-button-head-s.no.-16-fastener-screw-m3-x-0.5-x-10mm-hex-dr

Note: the polycarbonate lens has a cutout, due to assembly changes, it no longer matters if this is facing upward or downward.

The front part of the car should appear as follows:

Repeat the same assembly process for the rear of the car. Note that the back piece is identical to the front one but slightly longer.

(OLD Battery cable panel mount bracket instructions.)

This step needs this 3D printed part:

And this cable:

Please make sure you can find them. It will also need two screws of 1cm and M2.5 size. You can find them on this box#m2-m2.5-m3-screw-fastener-kit-for-wltoys-144001-1-14-rc-s.no.-25

Attach the two screws in this position:

Now you need to take out the bottom metal frame where the PDB (Power Distribution Board) is attached, make sure to detach the cables connected to the PDB. To take out the metal frame, quit the highlighted screws in the following image:

Now use two M3*6mm screws and two M3 nuts from this box:

And securely attach the XT60 panel mount and the cable adapter in this position:

Attach side plastic side skirts

Proceed with attaching the side parts of the car.

Once attached, the side components should look like this. To better illustrate the process, one side is shown attached while the other remains detached.

Adding front and side covers

Remove top plate screws and clips

Use a hex screwdriver or Allen Key and remove all top and side screws securing the top plate to the metal frame and carefully set them aside. These screws are important for later steps when you'll need to reattach the metal frame.

After removing the screws, carefully detach the eight plastic holders from the side. Remember to keep the screws and nuts in a safe place, as they will be needed later.

We will now mount the NavQPlus and The MR-CANHUBK344 to the metal top plate. Follow the steps in the next two sections. The final setup will look something like this:

Remove camera mount for use with MR-B3RB

The mount for the camera must be removed for MR-B3RB-M use, It is kept only when using the MR-B3RB-S KEEP the nut and screw that is in this original camera mount!

A) Easy but violent way of removing the Camera mount

Unless you REALLY want to keep the Camera mount, the easiest and quickest way to remove the mount is to use some side cutters and break the plastic base. Be careful and wear safety glasses as this plastic may be brittle and fly up. Alternatively you could cut this with a hacksaw or rotary tool. Be careful of any dust. While doing either method, be very careful not to damage the camera flex cable

B) Harder, more delicate method of removing the Camera mount

First, unscrew and remove the screws located at the corners of the board.

Then take out the white case, you should have something that look like this:

Then use the smallest hex key from the provided set to unscrew the screws on the corners of the blue case. This should allow you to detach the white case from the bottom. Note you don't have to remove the screws completely, just enough to detach them from the back plate.

The camera's flat ribbon cables is connected to a vertical connector situated in centre-right of the board.

To properly detach the camera, first, open the clip at the backside of the connector to release the ribbon cable. Once freed, you can remove it from the camera mount. To reconnect, carefully insert the flat ribbon cable back into the connector on the NavQPlus board. Ensure a secure connection.

NavQPlus Case Reassembly

Reassemble the board into the white casing using the previously removed screws. Note you should screw in the heatsink screws first while simultaneously pressing to ensure the case is fully closed. Then in a second step install the outer four screws.

Mounting the NavQPlus on the metal frame

Next, use the provided M3 screws to securely attach the board's corners to the following position in the metal frame:

Screw them in from the bottom side. It should look like this:

The following images illustrate the method for securing the cables to the metal frame using zip ties. This ensures a neat and organized setup.

After successfully attaching the NavQPlus, the next step is to install the MR-CANHUBK344 evaluation board.

Introduction

MR-CANHUBK344 is the real time controller board for the robot. After successfully attaching the NavQPlus, the next step is to install the MR-CANHUBK344 evaluation board.

Assmble MR-CANHUBK344 into enclosure

The materials needed for this tutorial are the MR-CANHUBK344, MR-CANHUBK344 ADAP board and the plastic covers of the boards:

Assemble the MR-CANHUBK344 on the bottom plastic then add the top cover. Use included screws to screw from the bottom side up into the top cover. The plastic top and bottom cover and board assembly should not be loose when properly assembled.

Preparation: Snap the edges off of MR-CANHUB-ADAP

Assemble MR-CANHUB-ADAP to MR-CANHUBK344

Attach the MR-CANHUBK344 assembly to the top plate which already contains the NavQPlus board. The final setup should look like this:

Assemble MR-CANHUBK344 onto top plate

The MR-CANHUBK344 board should be attached in the highlighted holes of the following image. M3x5mm screws should be used to screw in from the bottom side.

Upon completion, the entire assembly should appear as follows:

PX4 Arming Board vs GPS

The arming board will provide the same beeper and arming buttons. It doesn not (currently) include a compass component.

Install M10 GPS module

If provided in your kit, please install the GPS and GPS post mounting, The the pieces needed are listed in the WITB GPS Module page.

There is a set of screws that comes with the GPS unit. Use the 4 longer screws and Nylock Lock Nuts to attach the base mount.

It should be placed in this furthest back position:

Attach the mounting mast rod and fasten it with one of the smaller two screws left. Only loosly tighten these screws. Attach the top mount with the remaining screw. Keep it only loosely tighened as well. It should look like this when completed:

Attach the M10 GPS module to the mast

Locate the M10 GPS and the 3M double tape.

Attach the double tape in the center of the top mount.

Carefully align the GPS in the center of this tape. Ensure the arrow on the GPS module is facing forward. The cable of the GPS should be zip tied so it stays very close to the GPS mast in order to not obstruct the LIDAR sensor.

<<TODO - show image of fully connected GPS. Final Picture>>

Attach the NavQPlus camera to the front plastic mount.

The camera housing included with the NavQPlus mounts to the front "GoPro" style mount on the front plastic:

The camera flex cable should come out the back of the NavQPlus and loop over top of it. Then route under the lower edge of the front bracket. and up into the camera module. The final setup should look like this:

The MR-B3RB is versatile and can support several network wiring configurations. There are also several optional connections. This section will serve to show the BASELINE connections. We will also attach cables that may not be used, but should stay with the B3RB for future expansion

Baseline wiring intentions

• Provide power to the NavQPlus and MR-CANHUBK344

• Connect the two with T1 Ethernet

• Attach the LIDAR to the NavQPlus

• Attach the SERVO and Motor Control PWM to the MR-CANHUBK344

• Quadrature encoding from the motor/PDB to the MR-CANHUBK344

• Connect the RGB LED lighting

• Have debuggers and consoles attached

• Optionally plug in unused RC-PWM input

• Optionally connect CAN-FD cables, which could be used for peripherals and attachments

• (Optionally) connect a serial console from the MR-CANHUBK344 to the NavQPlus <<TODO - add link to section that removes the jumper on the PDB. Add PDB wiring section>>>

The final setup with al the established connections should look like this: <<<TODO UPDATE PHOTOS FROM HERE ON >>>

A closer view on the connection on MR-CANHUBK344:

And in the NavQPlus:

Please follow the steps 3a and 3b for the detailed explanation on these connections.

Wiring instructions will be demonstrated using images and GIFs for clearer visualization of the process.

Introduction

The RGB LEDS communicate using a modified SPI type that is unidirectional. The power for the LEDs is supplied by the PDB, and the SCL SDA lines attach to a SPI port on the MR-CANHUBK344

RGB LED wiring

First, we'll show hot to connect the LEDs cables from the LEDs panels to the PDB and the MR-CANHUBK344.

• Use the 4-pin cable with a protective covering to connect from the front to the rear LED assembly ends.

• Connect the rear LED to the PDB (Power Distribution Board) and the MR-CANHUBK344.

The following image shows the LED lights setup with the left side representing the rear and the right side indicating the front of the car.

The following images show a zoomed vision of the wiring:

The remaining pin is this one:

That must be connected on the following pin of the MR-CANHUBK344:

If you have correctly followed these steps the wiring setup of the LEDs cables should be finished.

Introduction

The Quadrature decoder (QDEC) cable connects from PDB to MR-CANHUBK344. The actual quadrature signals are coming from the encoder on the motor itself. The PDB is used to interface between the different cable types. This signal provides information on how many revolutions, and therefore how far, the robot has travelled and is used in the control system as an input.

QDEC (Quadrature Decoder) Cable

This cable is crucial for calculating the odometry, speed and direction of the robot car. The cable should look like this:

One end of the cable must be attached to the QDEC out pin on the PDB:

And the other end must be attached to the following pin on the MR-CANHUBK344:

Introduction

The MR-CANHUBK344 sends PWM signals to the Motor controller and also to the Servo. These are standard RC Model type PWM connections. It is important to get the positions correct on the header as the PWM signal timings are different between the motor and the steering servo. Also note that the steering servo gets powered from the +5V that is PROVIDED by the motor PWB connection on the PDB board.

PWM cable wiring to MR-CANHUBK344

The PWM cables that connect between the MR-CANHUBK344 board and the Power Distribution Board should look like this. Two of them are Female-Female and one is Male-Female.

Servo cable color code

Note that an extension cable is used for the servo PWM. The cable on the servo changes to the the alternative coloring as shown in the table below.

The cable color coding is as follows:

EXTRA CARE NEEDED

The PWM cable must be oriented so that the white signal wire is connection the pin labelled (S) on the MR-CANHUBK344.

The wite wire should be "inboard" on the PCB. The black ground wire will be closest to the outboard edge of the PCB.

Steering Servo PWM cable connection

The PWM cable that connects to the servo must be connected to PWM 0 of the MR-CANHUBK344. This is the PWM header CLOSEST to the side of the board with the CAN connectors.

This is depicted in the following GIF:

Motor control PWM cable connection

<<TODO>> make it more clear which cable is which. There is also a debug procedure that can be added. IF the motor starts running immediately on power up, then PWM 1 and PWM 2 need to be swapped. Confirm - This is when only ONE of the PWMs are connected.

The PWM cables that correspond to the motor throttle (PWM 1) and motor ENB (PWM2) must be connected on the following pins on the PDB:

The other end of the cables must be located in PWM 1 and PWM 2 positions of the MR-CANHUBK344:

The following GIF shows the connection of the three cables:

Power cable from PDB to MR-CANHUBK344

The last cable to connect is the EXTRA LONG power cable from the MR-CANHUBK344 to the Power Distribution Board which looks like this. The normal length power cable can be similarly connected to the NavQPlus

This is how it must be connected to the PDB:

And the other end must be connected to this pin on the MR-CANHUBK344

The following picture depicts the connections in an animated way.

M10 GPS connection

This is the M10 GPS

And this is all the cable connections available for now.

Introduction

The NavQPlus and MR-CANHUBK344 communicate to each other using 100Base-T1 Two wire ethernet .

BaseT1 Ethernet wiring between NavQPlus and MR-CANHUBK344

• Connect the ethernet cable between the NavQPlus and the MR-CANHUBK344.

• Zip Tie the cable at both ends, and tuck it under the top plate.

• Note the specific side notches to use.

• Use a piece of tape to hold it neatly out of the way under the plate

Standoff for LIDAR arch stability

Next install this standoff which gives stability for later steps in the mounting of the robot. The screws are the ones that come with the purple standoff and the nut are size M3:

And install it in this position:

Introduction

The GPS module is primarily used to provide the Magnetometer, sound and SAFETY button for the system. Not all systems will use the GPS localization functionality. The software however does injest the data and can be used for navigation outdoors.

M10 GPS connection

The M10 GPS cable attaches to the MR-CANHUBK344 as shown below

After connecting all the cables, proceed to attach the metal board frame to the robot car using the screws you removed at the beginning of this tutorial:

Front Plastic Shield with Mount for Camera

Please attach the plastic shield with the camera housing to the robot's front using 1cm M2.5 screws, which are located in this box provided:#m2-m2.5-m3-screw-fastener-kit-for-wltoys-144001-1-14-rc-s.no.-25.

For reference, a picture of the screws is displayed here: <<<TODO - these are not the correct screws. They should be flat head (tapered head> screws. Take picture and add here>>>

The mounting must look like these pictures:

Back Plastic Shield

And the attach the back plastic shield of the robot with the same screws:

Lidar arch metal upper plate

<<<<TODO - update the pictures below. The orientation of the LIDAR is backward!!!>>>

Attach the arch metal upper plate and the Lidar with 4 of the screws M3 X 0.5 X 10MM with socket head, labelled with the number six in the following picture:

It should look like this:

And the connection to the NavQPlus, as explained in #lidar-connection is depicted in this image:

Decorative top cover

METAL UPPER

LIDAR,

FINAL TOUCHES AND STICKERS

Please see assembly video at this time.

Introduction

There are two 5 pin JST-GH cables that provide battery power to the MR-CANHUBK344 and the NavQPlus. They are 5 pins, with no wire in the center position. Two wires are battery voltage+ and two wires are battery voltage-. Be sure to limit the voltage applied at the battery to <20V or the specified ratings for any boards plugged in. The nominal battery voltage is expected to be ~12V,

Power cable from PDB to MR-CANHUBK344

• Connect is the EXTRA LONG power cable from the MR-CANHUBK344 to the Power Distribution Board.

• The normal length power cable can be similarly connected to the NavQPlus

• ZIP TIE the cables to the edge of the top plate and make them neat.

These cable connect to the 5 pin JST GH on the PDB. Either connector is ok. They are both the same.

And the other end must be connected to this pin on the MR-CANHUBK344

The following picture depicts the connections in an animated way.

M10 GPS connection

This is the M10 GPS

And this is all the cable connections available for now.

Wiring instructions will be demonstrated using images and GIFs for clearer visualization of the process.

RGB LED wiring

First, we'll show hot to connect the LEDs cables from the LEDs panels to the PDB and the MR-CANHUBK344.

• Use the 4-pin cable with a protective covering to connect from the front to the rear LED assembly ends.

• Connect the rear LED to the PDB (Power Distribution Board) and the MR-CANHUBK344.

The following image shows the LED lights setup with the left side representing the rear and the right side indicating the front of the car.

The following images show a zoomed vision of the wiring:

The remaining pin is this one:

That must be connected on the following pin of the MR-CANHUBK344:

If you have correctly followed these steps the wiring setup of the LEDs cables should be finished.

QDEC (Quadrature Decoder) Cable

This cable is crutial for calculating the odometry, speed and direction of the robot car. The cable should look like this:

One end of the cable must be attached to the QDEC out pin on the PDB:

And the other end must be attached to the following pin on the MR-CANHUBK344:

BaseT1 Ethernet wiring between NavQPlus and MR-CANHUBK344

Second, we'll show how to connect the ethernet cable between the NavQPlus and the MR-CANHUBK344.

PWM cable wiring to MR-CANHUBK344

The PWM cables that come from the MR-CANHUBK344 board to the Power Distribution Board should look like this.

Servo cable color code

The cable color code is as follows:

Ensure the cable is oriented so that the white PWM signal is connection the port labelled (S) on the MR-CANHUBK344. This is "inboard" on the PCB. The black ground wire will be closest to the outboard edge of the PCB.

The PWM cable that connects to the servo must be connected to PWM0 of the MR-CANHUBK344 as depicted in the following GIF:

The PWM cables that correspond to the motor throttle (PWM 1) and motor ENB (PWM2) must be connected on the following pins on the PDB:

The other end of the cables must be located in this position of the MR-CANHUBK344:

The following GIF shows the connection of the three cables:

Note that an extension cable is used for the servo PWM. The cable on the servo is the alternative coloring as shown in the table above.

Power cable from PDB to MR-CANHUBK344

The last cable to connect is the EXTRA LONG power cable from the MR-CANHUBK344 to the Power Distribution Board which looks like this. The normal length power cable can be similarly connected to the NavQPlus

This is how it must be connected to the PDB:

And the other end must be connected to this pin on the MR-CANHUBK344

The following picture depicts the connections in an animated way.

M10 GPS connection

This is the M10 GPS

And this is all the cable connections available for now.

Power Cable

The cable shown below is NOT USED in B3RB. Instead connect the 5 pin power cable to the corresponding point on the PDB

Connect the l5 pin (4 wire) JST-GH power cable to the NavQPlus Power input:

BaseT1 Ethernet wiring between NavQPlus and MR-CANHUBK344

This is also explained here: #baset1-ethernet-wiring-between-navqplus-and-mr-canhubk344

Lidar connection

<TODO> refer to the mounting of the LIDAR base

The cable necessary for connect the NavQPus to the LIDAR-STL-27 is the number one in WITB Cables and Screws.

A closer view of this cable:

The Lidar used is the following:

You should connect the smaller end of the cable to the Lidar and the bigger end to the UART3 Serial port of the NavQPlus:

Thse are all the connections available for NavQPlus:

<TODO >

• note on CAN

• note on console

• note on Ethernet

Prepare: Lidar mounted to metal LIDAR Arch

The screws below and nylon locking nuts are included in the LIDAR box. Use these to attach the LIDAR to the LIDAR Arch.

Connect LIDAR cable to NavQPlus UART

Attach the arch metal upper plate and the Lidar with 4 of the screws M3 X 0.5 X 10MM with socket head, labelled with (6) in the following picture:

The connection to the NavQPlus is shown above, and also explained in #lidar-connection

<<<TODO - move the lidar connection link details to this single page. Delete the other references>>

(DRAFT)

The MR-B3RB-PDB (Power Distribution board) sits on the lower chassis and provides the following functions:

• 3S power input from LiPO battery or power supply with XT60 type power connector.

• Regulated 5V supply for boards and servos

• JST-GH Power cable connections for the NavQPlus and MR-CANHUBK344

  • Filtering on the power supply connectors

• Optional 5V power source and termination for a CAN bus.

• 3-pin Dupont style PWM connector to MR-CANHUBK344 and ESC cable connector. The PWM signals connect through to the two signals (Enable and PWM) on the ESC (motor controller) integrated into the BLDC motor on the B3RB Buggy Chassis.

• 3-Pin Dupont style PWM connectors also provide 5V "up" to the "servo rail/PWM rail" on the MR-CANHUBK344 in order to provide power to the Steering Servo or any other RC-PWM connected devices.

• 2 pins for use in providing 5V to the RGB-LEDS (TBD, this is optional and power presently is supplied via a 4 pint JST-GH on the MR-CANHUBK344)

• Quadrature Encoder in (custom) and out (JST-GH) connectors. In from B3RB motor, out via JST-GH to MR-CANHUBK344.

Remove Jumper from PDB

During manufacturing test, there may be a jumper on the PDB connecting + and S of the 3 pin servo header as shown below. It is very important to remove this jumper, It will NOT be used

(DRAFT)

Block Diagram

<todo> insert a block diagram and or photo of wiring. Image below may be helpful

(DRAFT)

Please see assmebly video for placement on the Upper Plate

Several connections will be made tot he MR-CANHUBK344 when used with MR-B3RB:

• MR-CAN-ADAP board with IMU and additional connectors

• Power connection

• T1 Ethernet connection

• Quadrature Encoder connection

• PWM connection for Steering servo and motor

• RGB LED connection

• (optional) INA226 based power monitor

• GPS with arming switch and Magnetometer

(DRAFT)

Please see assembly video for installation .

There are several connections to be made to the NavQPlus when used with MR-B3RB

• Power connection

• T1 Ethernet connection

• Wifi Antenna

  • or Optional rubber duck Antenna

• Lidar connection

• Camera connection

• CAN cables (not used at this point, but cabling should be installed during B3RB assembly)

(DRAFT)

Please see the assembly video for installation location.

This board connects on top of the MR-CANHUBK344. It should be relatively obvious how it pushes on top . Additional detail will be provided here at a later date.

• Installation

  • Locate as shown in the video. At the rear of the top plate, just in front of the GPS mount.

  • Use double sided adhesive tape supplied, or at least two M3 screws attaching it from the bottom to the top plate.

• Compass orientation

  • Arrow on silkscreen indicates the forward orientation of the onboard magnetometer/compass. Please attach the assembled MR-CANHUBK344 + CAN-ADAP so that the arrow is pointing to the front.

(DRAFT)

The camera included with NavQPlus is from Innowave and uses the following sensor with a fixed focus lens: OV5645

This camera board needs to be carefully assembled into a plastic housing provided. The housing includes a Go-Pro style mount on the back.

On MR-B3RB-M with MR-B3RB-MUK (mechanical upgrade kit) this mount is attached to the the matching mount on the front angled cover. the cable should be routed as shown on the assembly video.

On kits without the -MUK, there will be a plastic mount to attach to the top plate to hold the camera in a similar location.

• There are only three screws that hold the LIDAR in place. The side without screws has the wiring conneection. On the metalwork there will be an oval cutout on that side.

• Use 3x M2.5 screws and nuts to attach the Lidar to the top lidar brace as shown below.

• Remember to remove the plastic protective film from the lidar

• Note the small arrow on top of the LIDAR unit. It needs to face the forward direction which is the short flat side of the Top Lidar Brace. (You may need to flip the metal over to match the orientation shown.)

Support post on top plate

• An extra 35mm purple standoff and screws is provided in the kit. Screw this into one of the extra middle holes in order to provide upward pressure to the lidar brace / arch.

• Use the extra screw in the top of the post to unwind until it touches the brace to provide support.

In the default setup with MR-B3RB, the STL-27L lidar will connect to UART3 on the NavQPlus the cable provided is configured with the pins correctly arranged for this port.

Color code for Lidar to NavQPlus UART3 is as follows:

The top cover doubles as a work stand. This will keep the wheels up of the gound and can be useful while testing. You may want to put some soft tape or foam on the underside of the buggy chassis in order to avoid possible scratches on the top cover.

The following items are known issues with the first pre-production units shipped November 15th. We are working to resolve them. Some resolutions will involved shipping replacement parts.

The improvements and errata listed here are a subset of all that have been gathered.

Reporting / Help link

Please use this form to report something wrong, you have missing, or something you need: https://forms.office.com/e/kxRHainXDR

Noted Errata

E-100 ERRATA LED Cables

LED cables have incorrect JST-SH/STEMMAQT cables. While they do have a 1mm JST like cable our supplier seems to have used a similar but incompatible connector. We are working to manually make replacement cables. We will work to send out replacements to the original list of people. Please report if you need one.

Note that ADAFRUIT does sell the cables with the right type of connectors here: https://www.adafruit.com/product/4397

E-110 Errata XT60 Mount

The Plastic XT60 mount is a bit too flexible. This will not be updated for the Pre-production units. We are looking at improving the overall mounting and wiring for the battery compartment. One suggestion is a pivoting piece that would be mounted to the forward most standoff. A 3d printable part file can be provided of you want to print something locally. >> Later kits ship with the XT60 pivoting mount

Noted Improvements

I-100 Improvement pointy edges possible sharp edges

Some metal has a sharp edge, also the side skirts come to a relatively sharp point, this will be rounded more in production. The metal manufacturer will also be asked to double check the deburring of the metal edges themselves.

I-110 Improvement Alternative battery cable holder

An improved battery cable extension holder is available to allow the battery to plug in easier. This mount swivels on the front standoff. https://airy.cognipilot.org/reference_systems/b3rb/printable/

(DRAFT)

Mechanical Upgrade Kit

Consists of the following added components to provide a more complete finished look to the MR-B3RB. This is included with the MR-B3RB-M kit version.

• Plastic side skirts. These also provide a replacement mounting for the PCB top plate

• Front and rear LED covers

• Front and rear angled plastic, with cutouts for antennas, and GoPro type mount

• Top "arch" for Lidar mount

• Decorative top cover

• Side skirts

• Thumscrews and other screw/nut hardware